Adventure

HIKING IN JAPAN

Japan's cities get the press and the visitors, but there's another side of the country only a few intrepid travelers make time to see: its vast natural playground, protected by more than 13,500 square miles of national and quasi-national parks. Parks range from marine reserves that embrace the sea to those that cover mountain ranges and sparkling lakes.

Probably the best way to experience Japan's scenic beauty is on hiking trails that crisscross the country, from gentle slopes snaking along rugged capes to challenging mountain paths offering spectacular views of steep wooded hills, narrow ravines, and streams plunging into waterfalls. Almost every corner of the nation offers well-marked day hikes, even outside major cities.

Mt. Takao, for example, is easily accessible from Tokyo and offers a gentle hike through woodlands to its 2,000-foot summit, while Nikko National Park, a two-hour train ride from Tokyo, offers paths through forests of majestic cedars to historic shrines and temples.

One of the country's most historic day hikes is in the Kiso Valley, on the old Nakasen-do highway that once connected Edo (present-day Tokyo) with Kyoto; the hike between Tsumago and Magome, two historic post towns that retain their feudal-era atmosphere, takes about three hours.

There are also trails where serious trekkers can hike for days on end, mostly in national parks. The Chubu region boasts Japan's highest peaks; Kamikochi, nestled in Chubu-Sangaku National Park, is the starting point for treks through a stunning mountain scenery of lakes, wildflowers, and virgin forests of birch and Japanese larch trees.

In Hokkaido, good destinations include Daisetsuzan National Park with its miles of trails and remote Shiretoko Peninsula, a UNESCO World Heritage Site accessible only on foot or by boat.

A truly exceptional experience is the three-day hike across Yakushima, an island off Kyushu with a primeval rain forest of giant cedars.

Hikers interested in Buddhist history tackle the Shikoku Pilgrimage, a 40-day hike around the island to 88 Buddhist temples. Or experience the sacred region of Kumano by walking the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes.

In short, there are hikes to fit every outdoor enthusiast's needs, from walks that take in historic sites to serious treks far off the beaten path.