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The music, the colors, the dancing and the crowds were something I will never forget.

The New York Hanagasa Group participated in the Hanagasa Dance Festival in Yamagata City, this summer.The Hanagasa Dance Festival is one of the most beautiful and famous festivals in Japan. Twenty three members from the New York area joined in the parade/festivities This blog was written by the husband of Ms Momo Suzuki, who is the director of the Japanese Folk Dance Institute of New York, Inc., of which the New York Hanagasa Group is one of it’s parts. He had many wonderful experiences on this special trip to Japan.Although I have been to Japan many times, this recent trip was the first time I visited Yamagata Prefecture, my wife’s birthplace and childhood home.

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The main purpose of our trip was for my wife and her dancers from the New York Hanagasa-Kai to participate in the Yamagata Hanagasa Festival, held each year in Yamagata City, from Aug. 5th through Aug. 7th. I expected a few hundred dancers, at most, to participate in the parade. What I was surprised to find, was that thousands of dancers paraded down Yamagata City’s main street. On our night to perform, we walked to the staging area, a local park, where there were hundreds of dancers - men and women, young and old, all types of costumes - waiting to march. I was also surprised to discover that besides the traditional way of performing the dance, there is also a more athletic version of the dance for young dancers and even a hip-hop version for young children. The music, the colors, the dancing and the crowds were something I will never forget.

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After Yamagata City, my wife’s cousin booked us into a Japanese traditional hotel called Takinami, located in Akayu.
This new ryokan housed in a 300 year old building is the most authentic slice of old Japan that I have ever encountered in all of my previous trips to Japan. The owner, Mr. Suto, works as hard as any of his employees to make his guests feel at home, while also farming his own land; fruits and vegetables served at the hotel come from his farm and others owned by close friends. The area of Akayu is famous for its hot springs, from which Takinami draws water for its own hot spring baths. Pumped up from natural springs 300 meters below the surface, its wonderful waters, pumped into large tubs, will soothe and soak away all your worries. You will enter stressed and leave refreshed. With Takinami as our base, we visited various sites, with the magnificent mountains of Yamagata constantly surrounding us.

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We had a wonderful time visiting Yuzuru no Sato, the folk tale and folklore museum in Nanyo City. This museum is dedicated to artifacts from the well known grateful Crane Wife/Tsuru no ongaeshi of the tale. To further expand on what we had learned at the museum, the following day we were taken to the Soto Sect Chinzo Temple on Mount Kakufu, founded in 1460 by Kyokudo, the 2nd priest of the Rinno Temple. Our guide, Mr. Kaneko, was the narrator of the grateful Crane Wife fable at the municipal folk tale museum. This beautiful old temple is named after Chinzo, the main character in the grateful Crane Wife tale. An old cemetery, the rear of the temple had the most beautiful pond surrounded by bamboo trees and in the center of the pond, lotus flowers which only blossom for one day a year. Some of lotuses were open and displayed the most glorious shades of pink and red. While reveling is the serenity of the area, we were invited into the temple by the head priest and his lovely wife.

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The priest showed us a stuffed crane, which was enclosed in a glass case behind the altar. We chatted with his wife and enjoyed the marvelous view through the open screen. She enjoyed showing us a picture of their son, who was a priest in training at the famous Eiheji temple. She told us that not too long ago he looked very different; having hair below his waist and wearing hip hop clothing.

Looking back, I caught a glimpse of an older Japan that I had never seen before and is becoming increasingly difficult to find.

-Thomas k. Mooney

Tohoku-Japan’s Best-Kept Secret

I’ve been writing about Japan for almost 30 years, yet even I didn’t begin exploring Tohoku until a decade ago. Perhaps it’s because Tohoku, the huge northern expanse of Honshu island covering six prefectures, doesn’t have the famous historic treasures that lure travelers to Kyoto and southern Honshu. Nor does it have the romantic reputation of Hokkaido to the north, considered Japan’s last frontier.

Yet Tohoku is every bit as beautiful as Hokkaido, with a rugged, mountainous terrain, which, coupled with spectacularly snowy winters, has isolated the region and contributed to the preservation of its traditions. In fact, Tohoku was so far removed from the ancient capitals of Kyoto and Kamakura, that the powerful Fujiwara clan was able to set up a kingdom of their own here in Hiraizumi, chosen for its location at the junction of two rivers and on the main road leading from Kyoto to the north. Hiraizumi reached its zenith in the 11th and 12th centuries, when it rivaled Kyoto in splendor. Today, Kyoto is Japan’s most famous destination, while Hiraizumi is a small village with fewer than 10,000 inhabitants. Yet the area boasts some famous historic sites, including Chusonji Temple, with a treasure house containing 3,000 cultural objects and works of art; Konjikido, an elaborately decorated building famous throughout Japan for its decorations of gold leaf and mother of pearl; and Motsuji Temple with its traditional garden.

© Iwate Tourism Bureau

For me, however, it’s Tohoku’s natural beauty that speaks to me the most. One of my favorite spots in all of Japan is along the Oirase Stream, a clear, gurgling mountain stream that courses over moss-covered boulders and down waterfalls as it flows from Lake Towada 42 miles to the Pacific. Flanking the stream starting at Lake Towada is one of the prettiest hiking trails in the country, an 8-mile path shaded by maple, oak, and beech trees.

On my last visit to Lake Towada, however, my job as the author of Frommer’s Japan dictated that I spend the day in a car with staff from Aomori Prefecture as I inspected nearby hotels, Japanese inns, and restaurants. The only glimpses I had of the Oirase Stream and its inviting trail was from the window of a speeding car, and I looked at it longingly, like an alcoholic in rehab. By the time I checked into my hotel, which was located directly on the Oirase Stream, it was 8pm and already dark. I was scheduled to depart the hotel the next morning at 8am.

So I arose the next morning at dawn and hit the trail. As it turned out, I had the trail and stream gloriously to myself. Usually there are other hikers, not to mention buses that disgorge tourists at scenic overlooks, but at this time of the day the only other person I encountered was a photographer. It’s for moments like this that I travel, and since being alone in nature is a spiritual experience for me, I felt like I was in paradise on earth.

Although Tohoku may not be on the itinerary of most international travelers, that could change: Hiraizumi is on the tentative list as a UNESCO World Heritage site. My advice: go before everyone else does.

Gero Onsen

Close your eyes; now imagine the soothing feeling of hot spring water running all over your skin. Are you relaxed?

With the frantic, but fun schedule we kept on our April trip to Japan, it would not have been complete if we hadn’t gone to an "onsen" (Japanese hot spring). And one of the top hot springs in Japan is the Gero Spa.

My wife and I traveled to Gero leaving from Nagoya by way of the JR Express Hida train on the Takayama main line.

Our host greeted us, took our luggage and escorted us to the courtesy shuttle van. It was late and very dark so we were unable to see the beautiful surroundings during our three minute ride.

Our hostess met us at the entrance and took us on a quick tour before showing us to our tatami room. The bedding had already been laid out so we took a quick nap before heading down to the spa.

When we got there my wife ( She is Japanese) turned to me and said "see you later". Wait I thought we were supposed to go in together in our wrap around towels or swimsuits. I’d only seen pictures and imagined it like a giant co-ed swimming pool. But no it’s totally separated with men on one side and women on the other.

Peeking through the small window into the hot springs bath and seeing three older naked Japanese guys, I thought… let me wait awhile they’ll probably be leaving soon. Not so, two of the guys were sitting on plastic stools lathering up in front of the showers and the other guy was floating in the pool.

I finally went in; still in my boxer shorts (I’m a little shy). It’s hard to try and sneak in unnoticed, being a six four American and on the "husky" side. I sat on the edge of the big bathtub and stuck my feet in. Wow that felt great!

Finally "oyasumi nasai (good night)" older naked Japanese guys.

I hopped in and floated around for about twenty minutes until my fingers started to prune. My skin felt so good when I got out and I slept really well that night.

We woke up at 5 a.m. and went back down. At that hour it was empty. I would have liked to stay in forever and even bottle some water to take with us.

When we returned to the room we enjoyed the beautiful scenery of the Hida River and the Japanese Alps in the distance. It was a gorgeous spring day.

Our gracious hostess delivered our breakfast which consisted of a half boiled egg, tofu, miso soup, daikon, white rice and one of the tastiest fish I have ever eaten, yamame (a fresh water fish).

When we finished, our spa host drove us back to the train station and we spent a little time souvenir shopping in the small town of Gero.

Our Gero Onsen experience was both relaxing and refreshing. And it only cost eight thousand yen including breakfast.

We’ll definitely be going back on our next visit to Japan. Perhaps in the fall.

Gero Onsen Tourist Information Website
http://www.city-gero.jp/kankou/e/

Gero Onsen Ryokan Association Website
http://www.gero-spa.or.jp/english/index.html

Strolling through History in Kyoto

I can’t imagine going to Kyoto and not taking a walk. What would be the point if you didn’t meander through its narrow streets, lined with old wooden homes, teahouses, craft stores, and temples, stopping to watch, say, an old man make tatami mats or a woman arrange delicate sweets in her centuries-old shop like they were expensive pieces of jewelry?

Kyoto’s real treasures aren’t the kinds of things you’ll see on a bus tour, nor will you find most of them on a map. Rather, these are the tangible rewards of exploring Kyoto on your own two feet?the intangible rewards go much deeper. I may be sentimental, but Kyoto affects me more than any other Japanese town. The beauty of this ancient capital absolutely tugs at my heart, making me wistful for all the things that didn’t survive into the 21st century—and incredulous that so much could have survived at all. I walk Kyoto’s lanes like a person possessed, my imagination working overtime as I wonder what scenes of everyday life may have played out on these very same streets long ago. If you spend your days in Kyoto racing around in a taxi or bus from one temple to another, the essence of Japan’s former capital, and its charm, may literally pass you by.

Practically every neighborhood in Kyoto warrants exploration, including the one right outside your hotel or Japanese inn. My own personal favorites, however, are in East Kyoto. I love walking from Sanjusangendo Hall all the way to Ginkakuji (Temple of the Silver Pavilion). I usually break it into two days, but even if you have only one day to devote to all of Kyoto, you can do no better than to spend at least a few hours here.

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Highlights include Sanjusangendo Hall, stretching almost 400 feet and containing more than 1,000 images of the thousand-handed Kannon; the Kyoto National Museum with its many treasures from Kyoto’s past; Kiyomizu Temple, perched on a hill and supported by 139 pillars, each 49 feet high; Kodaiji Temple with a beautiful garden designed by master gardener Kobori Enshu; Nanzenji Temple with its famous painted sliding door of a tiger drinking water in a bamboo grove and a Zen rock garden that I think rivals Kyoto’s most famous rock garden, Ryoanji; and Ginkakuji, built as a retirement villa for a shogun and designed purely for enjoying the cultural pursuits of the time, like moon viewing and the tea ceremony. Ah, those were the days!

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But it’s not just these historic gems that make a stroll in East Kyoto stand out, but rather what you can see and do on the way. Craft and souvenir shops line pedestrian slopes leading to Kiyomizu, while on the grounds of the temple are open-air pavilions, shaded by Japanese maples and offering noodles, shaved ice, and other refreshing snacks. I never visit Heian Shrine, built in 1895 to commemorate Kyoto’s 1,100th birthday, without a stroll through its Meiji-era garden famous for its weeping cherry trees. There’s a wooden bridge here, topped by a phoenix, with a bench where I always pause to soak in the views. And whose spirits wouldn’t be lifted with a walk along the Philosopher’s Pathway, flanking a tranquil canal lined with cherry trees?

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There are also lots of traditional restaurants in East Kyoto, many with histories that go back for centuries and with tatami-floored rooms overlooking exquisite gardens. Like the traditional Kyoto cuisine for which this ancient capital is famous, Kyoto, too, is to be savored slowly, a feast for the eyes and the senses.

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People always ask which place in Japan is my favorite. That’s impossible to answer (it would be like asking which son I like better!), but I do know this: If you have time to visit only one city in Japan, Kyoto should be it.

TOYAKO - A NATURAL HOT SPOT FOR THE G8 SUMMIT ON CLIMATE CHANGE

Toyako, in Hokkaido, may not be on the international tourism radar, but that’s about to change when it hosts the G8 Summit on climate change in July. The reason Toyako (Lake Toya) was selected by the Japanese government is as clear as the lake itself. With its magnificent, unspoiled natural beauty, Toyako serves as a messenger from Mother Earth, a visual reminder of what’s to be lost if mankind does not mend its ways.

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The shining jewel of Shikotsu-Toya National Park, Toyako, surrounded by hills and volcanoes, is a typical caldera lake - that is, a lake formed within the collapsed crater of an extinct volcano. Toyako stands out for its depth - an astonishing 590 feet - so deep that it never freezes over, not even in the dead of winter. In its center are four thickly wooded islets, casting mirror images of themselves in the water below.

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Lake Toya’s waters are so invitingly clear, it’s tempting to just jump right in. After biking about 20 minutes from Toyako Spa to a place called Taki-no-ue Camp where there’s a sandy beach, I learned firsthand why people don’t swim in Hokkaido’s lakes, even in summer: the water is freezing! Instead, visitors enjoy the scenery by taking boat cruises, stopping off at Nakajima Island in the middle of the lake to visit a natural history museum about the area’s wildlife.

I also love the spectacular fireworks display Toyako Spa has been putting on every night for more than 25 years, from the end of April through October, launched from boats in the lake. Other area activities include horseback riding, canoeing, and perusing the fresh produce at Toyako’s early-morning farmer’s market.

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Otherwise, Toyako’s biggest biggest attractions, quite literally, are its two active volcanoes, Mt. Usu and Showa-Shinzan. Mt. Usu has erupted four times in the past century, in 1910, 1944-45, 1977, and 2000. Showa-Shinzan, on the other hand, is a newcomer. It was nothing but a flat farm field until Mt. Usu suffered volcanic convulsions in 1944. Then, over two years, the ground began to rise, volcanic eruptions shook the area, and lava rose, resulting in the fledgling volcano now more than 1,346 feet high.

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The Usuzan ropeway takes visitors to an observation platform near the top, with sweeping panoramic views of Lake Toya and Showa-Shinzan. Another seven-minute walk brings visitors to another observation deck, with views of a gaping crater formed by Mt. Usu’s 1977 eruption, still smoldering to this day. You can learn more about Mt. Usu at the Volcano Science Museum at the Toyako Visitor Center, which chronicles Mt. Usu’s eruptions with displays and presents a dynamic film that vividly demonstrates the power of volcanic eruptions. Visitors can see that power themselves by hiking the Nishiyama Crater Promenade, a one-hour walking trail that takes visitors over ground forced up by Mt. Usu’s 2000 eruption and close to billowing craters and geothermal spots.

The good news about all this volcanic activity? Hot springs! Toyako Spa abounds in hot-spring hotels with indoor and outdoor baths, yet the town is so small you can easily navigate it by foot. I don’t know whether the dignitaries attending the G8 Summit will take advantage of the baths (I hope they do!), but I do know this: unless we preserve our planet, we’ll all end up in hot water just the same.

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